Marrakech
No rush. Sleep in and eat your msmen.
7 days from €680
Atlantic air, riad courtyards, and the Atlas at walking pace.
Honeymoons and families who'd rather have comfort than a checklist.
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No rush. Sleep in and eat your msmen.
This is where the goats climb the argan trees, and where you watch the women crack argan nuts.
People pack a bikini and expect the Riviera. The Atlantic is freezing and the wind will sandblast your face on the beach. Essaouira is a walking, eating and reading town, not a swimming town.
Midday sun is blindingly white on the medina walls; the better hour is 17:30, when the sun drops over the Atlantic and the ramparts turn gold.
Working fishermen's port, not the tourist seafood stalls in the square: buy a sea bass or a John Dory straight off the blue wooden boats, walk it into the medina to a grill stand in the market, and pay a few dirhams to have it grilled over charcoal. Also the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter in the north of the medina — crumbling, historic, and real.
A long 1.5-hour lunch looking at the lake and the mountains. Marrakech is bypassed completely.
People think it is a quick hop. You cross the entire plains and then climb thousands of feet on winding mountain roads.
Late afternoon shadows stretching across the red dirt valleys as you climb.
A three-hour loop through the Ouirgane valley or the lower terraces around Imlil — olive groves, small dry riverbeds, and Berber villages built of red clay. Start at 09:00, because the morning mountain air is crisp and by 13:00 the sun in the valleys is surprisingly intense; you want to be eating on a shaded terrace by then.
A 10-minute photo stop for the sheer drop.
In time for lunch.
What is covered
People
Driver
9 years driving this route
Village culture bridge, local tea-spot fixer, and fresh-fish negotiator at the Essaouira port.
Sleeping
Inside the medina walls
Outside the walls along the beach it is large concrete resort hotels taking the wind. Inside you are sheltered and part of the city. What ruins a night: a riad built directly into the Skala sea wall. It sounds romantic, but the Atlantic damp rots the plaster and the seagulls start screaming outside your window at 04:30.
Mountain guesthouse or kasbah lodge
Do not expect good wifi or nightlife; you are there to read a book and look at Toubkal. What ruins a night: no central heating, or a bad fireplace, in winter at 1,500 metres.
FAQ
Two is the minimum, three is the sweet spot, four only if you kitesurf.
The Atlantic is freezing and the wind is constant. It is a walking, eating and reading town.
You can, but then it is no longer a slow route. The desert needs its own time.
No. The valley loop is about three hours in trainers, through olive groves and villages.
April and May for the Atlas, when the blossom is out. Essaouira is at its best in spring and autumn, and is a relief in July and August while Marrakech is melting.
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