Fes
Depart 08:00. If you are late you miss the sunset on the dunes.
3–4 days from €430
Land in Fes, finish in Marrakech, and never drive the same road twice.
Anyone flying into one city and out of another, who wants the Sahara on the way.
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Depart 08:00. If you are late you miss the sunset on the dunes.
Coffee and a clean bathroom. Looks like a Swiss alpine village built in the 1930s. The famous monkeys are not here — they are 20 minutes on, in the Azrou cedar forest.
Macaque monkeys.
Lunch around 12:30.
A massive canyon filled with palm trees.
Arrive 16:30–17:00.
From a hotel on the edge of the dunes where big suitcases stay behind; you take only a small backpack. Camel 1–1.5 hours, or 4x4 across the dunes in 25 minutes if you hate camels. The light goes between 18:00 and 19:30 depending on the month and the dunes turn deep red. Sunrise means waking at 05:30 and 30–45 minutes to dress in the cold and climb the highest dune in the dark. Day 1 works as long as you do not dawdle at lunch.
Depart 09:00, after riding the camels back, showering and eating breakfast.
1.5 hours walking between the 300-metre canyon walls, plus 45 minutes for lunch. Midday sun is harsh but inside the gorge it is shadowy and cool. It is mostly a flat paved path beside a stream, not a hiking expedition.
Midday sun is harsh but inside the gorge it is shadowy and cool.
Arrive 16:00. Day 2 is an easy day.
Depart 08:30.
Stay 1.5–2 hours to climb to the top of the village, plus lunch. Extremely bright, zero shade — sunglasses and a hat. People still live in some of the houses. Do not walk into an open door thinking it is a museum.
Extremely bright, zero shade — sunglasses and a hat.
2,260 metres. Blind corners and sheer drops.
Arrive 17:00–17:30. 17:00 is realistic in April. In January with ice, or stuck behind slow watermelon trucks on the Tichka, expect 18:30. Heavy snow can close the pass completely; you wait in Ouarzazate until the snowploughs clear it, which can take a full day, or take an 8-hour detour south through Taroudant. In July, the asphalt melts, heavy trucks break down on the steep inclines, and traffic backs up.
What is covered
People
Driver
12 years driving this route
I have a wife and three kids in Fes. I want to go home to them. I will drive safe.
Sleeping
Desert camp
Guesthouse or kasbah
FAQ
It is what most people book, but day one is a 7.5-hour drive from Fes to the camp. With back problems or children, take four.
July and August. Merzouga reaches 45–50°C, you cannot walk barefoot on the sand, and engines overheat on the passes.
The police close it. You wait in Ouarzazate, up to a full day, or take an 8-hour detour via Taroudant.
No. A 4x4 crosses the dunes to the camp in 25 minutes.
A small backpack. Big suitcases stay at a hotel on the edge of the dunes.
Mostly a flat paved path alongside a stream.
Start
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